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Fat Taco South of MarketOMR: 7.00
525 Howard
cross street: 1st St.
ph. 415/371-1454
Map Visits: 1
With three Gordo Taq. locations in the Avenues and, now, Fat Taco on Howard St., San Francisco’s taqueria scene is beginning to develop a bit of a weight problem. And while Fat Taco’s burritowork can’t remotely approach that of the pace-setting studs across town at Gordo, at least its setting is surely unique: It’s sequestered at the back bar of nitespot Club NV, so get ready to “experience” lunch amid the less-than-warm, blackwalled environs of a South of Market megaclub named after Nevada’s postal abbreviation. Only Nick’s Crispy Tacos can compete in San Francisco’s cheesiest taqueria match-up. Closed evenings and weekends. Breakfast available until 12PM. Credit cards accepted.

Will My Health Be Violated?

01/17/12Fat Spicy Pork$7.757.00 Mustaches
Swish: spiciness (10); meat (9); rice (8); cheese (8); temperature (8)
Shrug: tortilla (7); burstage abatement (7); size (6); ingredient mix (6)
Clang: vegetables (5); sauciness (5); beans (4)
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

Apart from ideally furious spice and a heaping helping of mighty tasty shredded pork, there wasn’t much to get superlative over here at Fat Taco, where only a few nights before Daniella and Jorge from Fremont were grinding against one another to a deafening mash-up of LMFAO and Katy Perry or something. The problem with the spicy pork was its creeping greasiness — damn near every single bite was punctuated with steady drips, and that’s even less OK than when the DJ clears the floor with some third-rate Maroon 5 cut or saccharine Bruno Mars ballad. On the bottom end of the scale, the smattering of blah pinto beans remained a non-factor throughout, while some bites contained alarmingly lukewarm moments, the biggest turn-off this side of a coke-caused nosebleed all over your finest white clubbing shirt. Finally, our burrito’s slender build seemed grossly inappropriate (considering the name of the place), even if the cheese contributed slyly, yet consistently. Then we indulged in some VIP bottle service and said "hella" a lot.