the Intestinal Apocalypse Monthly Apparel Bazaar

Tropisueño South of MarketOMR: 7.44
75 Yerba Buena Lane
cross street: Mission/Jessie
ph. 415/243-0299
Map Visits: 2
Its name seemingly lifted from a Barry Manilow hit of yesteryear, Tropisueño sits on pedestrian-only Yerba Buena Lane, adjacent to the Contemporary Jewish Museum and its funny blue askew cube. It’s an order-at-the-counter taqueria solely by day; come eveningtime, things get considerably more formal. The room itself is pleasant but feels strangely ersatz-suburban Phoenix...although the thatch-style ceiling is a unique design touch, to say the least. But the salsa bar is suitably bountiful, the staff is courteous, and hey, tasty horchata. All kinds of adult beverages available. Many sorts of credit cards accepted. Outdoor seating available.

Will My Health Be Violated?

02/10/13Super Chile Verde Pork$7.957.58 Mustaches
Swish: spiciness (10); size (9); beans (9); burstage abatement (9); meat (8); vegetables (8); temperature (8)
Shrug: tortilla (7); rice (7); ingredient mix (7)
Clang: sauciness (5); cheese (3)
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

This hunk of a burrito was only a more liberal dose of sauce and a better-melted cheese performance away from major success...but that's sort of like saying a baseball team that lost by four runs was only five runs away from winning. For a chile verde slab, this sure was a sauce-deficient lunch, and cheese was a shameful non-factor throughout; other complaints included occasional temperature dips and too damn much rice (all of which was on the dry side). Other than the grain overabundance and sauce paucity, however, the ingredient mix was fairly on-point, and our judges panel couldn't bellyache about how anything from Tropisueño's busy kitchen tasted — the guacamole possessed some inviting citrus notes, and the pork was tender, flavorful, and nicely stewed. Marvelously aggressive spice and ace refried beans maintained our attention throughout, even if intangible charm never gained a foothold.

01/10/09Super Barbacoa$8.457.17 Mustaches
Swish: burstage abatement (10); meat (9); tortilla (8); rice (8); beans (8); sauciness (8)
Shrug: size (7); vegetables (7); spiciness (7)
Clang: ingredient mix (5); temperature (5); cheese (3)
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

Hey, who ordered the sour cream? Not us. Not since around 2004, in fact. No matter – we received a slathering within our moderately short, but girthsome slab, and while it certainly wasn’t the end of the world, it did immediately scuttle any chance this burrito had at earning two bonus mustaches for intangibility. The high point of our foiled lunch, aside from its idiot-proof construction, was a set of extra-delicious shredded beef, seasoned to our liking and plentiful enough in quantity. Fluffy Spanish rice and a fine set of refried beans provided a solid foundation, but the way they were escorted to - and held captive on – one side of the slab, top to bottom, was deeply troubling. Unmelted mini-grates of cheese furthered the level of indignity, and it all added up to temperature inconsistencies early, often, and late. Sharply tangy guacamole and capable sauciness held up their ends, however.