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Burritoeater.com Apparel Bazaar

Paraiso, El MissionOMR: 7.83
1198 Treat
cross street: 25th St.
ph. 415/824-2535
Map Visits: 1
El Paraiso occupies the corner storefront at 25th and Treat previously home to Salsa Taq. and its legendary murals that portrayed dancing, mustachioed vegetables and sash-wearing Mexican entrees. (Several detail photos of this bygone folk-art remain available on Burritoeater.com’s splash page.) El Paraiso’s menu embraces culinary diversity more than its predecessor and includes sandwiches, toasted bagels, a whole bunch of coffee drinks, and of course, a smattering of taqueria-friendly items. There are even a couple computers dialed into our age’s favorite technological advancement, this here Internet. Most importantly, the tortilla chips are housemade and top-rank. Order at the counter, eat first, pay later. Minimal outdoor seating available. Credit cards accepted.

Will My Health Be Violated?

02/28/08Beef$6.007.83 Mustaches
Swish: meat (10); spiciness (10); size (9); temperature (9); rice (8); vegetables (8)
Shrug: sauciness (7); ingredient mix (7); burstage abatement (7); tortilla (6); beans (6)
Clang: cheese (5)
Intangibility bonus: 2 (of 2)

El Paraiso shouldn’t be your first choice if you’ve got somewhere to be in 15 minutes. But anyone with a bit of time to spare will appreciate certain freshly prepared ingredients, particularly the juicy and flavorful steak. We sure did. A pair of surprising veggie toss-ins — sliced serrano peppers and shredded lettuce — had our emotions running in opposite directions, for while we rejoiced in the fierce spice brought forth by the serranos, we made sad faces at the wrathful inclusion of the leaves. Win some, lose some — although given the eight mustaches awarded to this sizable burrito’s vegetable gang, you can guess how much say the guacamole, pico de gallo, and occasionally prominent onion had here. The Spanish rice played along amiably, while the refried beans relied far too much on paste over taste. The tortilla shysted our judges panel with its flaky look of grilledness that futilely tried to mask the chewy consistency of its true steamedness, while the burstage abatement rating took a hit due to a mid slab wrap-break that, although merely cosmetic, was mighty unsightly for a few minutes there. And those tiny grates of jack cheese were simply overmatched by everything else...but the steak and spice did their damndest to compensate.