1198 Treatcross street: 25th St.
ph. 415/824-2535
Map Visits: 1
Shrug: sauciness (7); ingredient mix (7); burstage abatement (7); tortilla (6); beans (6)
Clang: cheese (5)
Intangibility bonus: 2 (of 2)
El Paraiso shouldn’t be your first choice if you’ve got somewhere to be in 15 minutes. But anyone with a bit of time to spare will appreciate certain freshly prepared ingredients, particularly the juicy and flavorful steak. We sure did. A pair of surprising veggie toss-ins — sliced serrano peppers and shredded lettuce — had our emotions running in opposite directions, for while we rejoiced in the fierce spice brought forth by the serranos, we made sad faces at the wrathful inclusion of the leaves. Win some, lose some — although given the eight mustaches awarded to this sizable burrito’s vegetable gang, you can guess how much say the guacamole, pico de gallo, and occasionally prominent onion had here. The Spanish rice played along amiably, while the refried beans relied far too much on paste over taste. The tortilla shysted our judges panel with its flaky look of grilledness that futilely tried to mask the chewy consistency of its true steamedness, while the burstage abatement rating took a hit due to a mid slab wrap-break that, although merely cosmetic, was mighty unsightly for a few minutes there. And those tiny grates of jack cheese were simply overmatched by everything else...but the steak and spice did their damndest to compensate.
